My Pacific Crest Trail trek began with a six-day pre-hike in Big Bend National Park — a chance to test my gear and my appetite for solo tenting before heading out on the PCT.
I am in Texas because of a new Banff film screening in Midland. This is the heart of oil country. There are oil wells everywhere — even between the runways at the airport. When you look at this area on Google maps, the chequered patterns of the wells and access roads look as if someone has painted a grid and dot pattern over the landscape.
As I drive out of Midland in the early morning dark, the odour of hydrogen sulphide permeates the car and gas flares dot the horizon.
Big Bend lies several hours south on the Texas-Mexico border. It is named for the point where the Rio Grande, after flowing south for 2500 km, jogs north for some 90 kilometres before resuming its southward path to the Gulf of Mexico.
The Spaniards dubbed this area “El Despoblad” — the uninhabited land. And driving into the park it is obvious why. I spend several hours traversing a parched scrub-desert toward distant mountains. There isn’t a speck of green in sight. At one time this was cattle country, but a prolonged drought has robbed this land of grass — all that remains are yuccas and mesquites.
My destination is the Chisos Mountains, rising over 7000 feet above the desert floor. I’ve chosen what I think will be a relatively easy 20k hike spread over five days, with two rest days spent at the same campsites. I know water will be a challenge, but given the relatively short distances, I can always hike back to the car to stock up, right?
The rangers at the visitor centre seem somewhat bemused that I intend to be out five nights. They explain I will need four litres of water per day. I explain my return to the car plan. They explain that the trail climbs 1600 feet in the first five kms. Guess I will be getting a workout!
The hike is indeed heart-pounding, but the views are spectacular, and my first campsite is idyllic. Unfortunately, after a brief rest, it is back to the car in the 23-degree heat to schlep another 8 litres of water up the hill. For the rest of the hike, I will shuttle water caches along the trail. So much for ‘rest’ days!
Big Bend is a birding hotspot, and since I am spending my second and third nights in Colima Canyon, I am hopeful of seeing a Colima warbler — this is the only place in the United States where they can be found. But birds are noticeably sparse —not a warbler in sight. Perhaps the six-year drought means they are skipping Big Bend for greener oases. I do spot a couple of lifers — including the somewhat ominous Black Vulture.
The campsites here are set well apart, each with its own access trail. Unlike Banff, every site has its own bear-locker, so there is little opportunity to meet other campers.
On day 3, I do meet Adam, a 20-something state park employee from Tennessee. Adam is carrying a ten-gallon jug of water in one hand, which he confesses is really hard on his arms and shoulders, and he is limping due to blistered feet. This may be thanks to the fact that he is hiking in his work-issued leather construction boots. I gently suggest he invest in some trail runners — but he says his part-time job means he can’t afford fancy footwear. Adam is remarkably cheery and enthused about hiking in Big Bend. I regale him with stories of Banff, and he promises to visit sometime.
After moving my water cache, I spend my second ’off’ day hiking to the South Rim, a viewpoint perched over a 2000-foot cliff.
The vistas are jaw-dropping, and for several hours I watch vultures and peregrines wheel below me. Unfortunately, pollution from coal-fired power plants means the Big Bend landscape is shrouded in a permanent haze. Despite a heavy thunderstorm on my last night, it never dissipates.
On my final day, I speed down the trail, happy to be headed to an air conditioned car and later, a shower. After ‘washing’ in a half-cup of water each night, I have never been so dirty!
Learnings from this pre-hike?
- water is heavy
- the sun is hot
- hiking uphill is hard
- I still loved every minute!
I begin hiking the Pacific Crest Trail on April 8. Not sure how often I will have a cell signal, but I will aim to update this blog periodically. Hike on!
