I’ve realized I’ve jumped into this blog/e-journal without actually explaining what I am up to. For about a month, I am hiking the trails of the Rota Vicentina in southern Portugal. First, the Historical Way — 263 km. Then the Fisherman’s Trail — 227 k. And a couple of Circular Routes thrown in for good […]
Portugal sounds
Portugal sounds like…… Dogs barking. Every farm house has a guard dog — or two or three. And their primary purpose in life is to bark madly at every walker who passes by. 2) Goat and cow bells. Most goats and cows have bells dangling around their necks. I am scarcely ever beyond the call […]
Portugal’s Aussie Forests
The scenery over the past two days has been stunning. Verdant forests sweeping down to fields dotted with sheep and cattle. But those forests hide a dirty secret — they are dominated by eucalyptus trees imported from Australia! ‘Dirty’ because apparently (according to my guidebook) they are an ecological disaster — sucking up water and […]
Cork forests and spring flowers
It was a long thirsty 19 k to Vale Seco. Lessons learned — get up early to beat the heat, and carry lots of water! For most of the day, I hiked along what amounted to forestry roads. But the forestry practiced here doesn’t involve cutting down trees. Instead, the bark of the cork tree […]
Palm Sunday
I spent Sunday exploring Santiago do Cacem and environs. I began in the oldest district, downslope from the castelo, and almost immediately I heard music. I assumed it was a radio, but when I rounded a corner I was swept up in a Palm Sunday procession. There were about 150 people of all ages walking […]
Santiago do Cacem
I arrived in Santiago do Cacem at noon to a celebration party at the local tourism bureau. I was just looking for a map, but was handed a glass of wine, some savoury cheeses and cured meats, and Alcomonias cake! Alcomonias is Arabic in origin and contains pine nuts, a pinch of cumin, flour and […]
Calçada and the Portuguese Blues
I spent my first two days in Portugal exploring Lisboa (Lisbon). Somehow, despite being a city of three million people, Lisboa has the feel of a smallish town. Narrow winding streets. Stuccoed three-storey buildings of soft yellow and pink, upper balconies hung with laundry. Locals smoking on doorsteps and calling to their neighbours from open […]