I’ve realized I’ve jumped into this blog/e-journal without actually explaining what I am up to. For about a month, I am hiking the trails of the Rota Vicentina in southern Portugal. First, the Historical Way — 263 km. Then the Fisherman’s Trail — 227 k. And a couple of Circular Routes thrown in for good measure. Each day, I walk an average of 18 k or so, carrying my clothes, gear etc in my trusty Osprey pack.
This trip was inspired by my friend Ann Morrow, who has been doing awe-inspiring multi-week treks in Europe for years. It was born out of boredom in an Ontario hotel room while I was on tour this winter with the Banff festival. I’ve been wanting to do a trip like this for years and I thought if not now, never. So I texted Kevin and asked if he’d be ok if I spent April in Portugal —and here I am.
According to the excellent Rota Vicentina guide book, the Historical Way is “to be done slowly, according to flow of country life.” I’ve been strolling along farm and forestry trails through pastures, beside riverbanks, and through cork and eucalyptus groves. In six days, I saw just one other hiker. Some days I saw no one at all between the start and end points.
The Fisherman’s Trail is a whole other kettle of fish (pun intended for Kevin.) Right now, I am walking a section of the Historical Way that overlaps with it. Suddenly there are lots of other hikers—and the reason is the spectacular coastal scenery. The trail skirts the oceans edge along 100-metre cliffs with huge rollers crashing below. Occasionally it crosses a beach.
This network of trails trails originally provided access to the coast for fishermen. The topography meant there weren’t many places where it was safe to descend to the water. And there was a very specific harvest the fisherman were seeking — gooseneck barnacles. Today, I passed three men pulling on wetsuits. I assumed they were going surfing, but I remember thinking their suits seemed particularly ragged. Turned out they were harvesting gooseneck barnacles. If you squint, you can see them in the video below, dodging waves to scrape barnacles from the rocks.
Haven’t had a chance to try barnacles yet — a local delicacy —will report back when I do!
Tonight I am staying in Arrifana, which (surprise to me) turns out to be a surfer’s mecca.
Tomorrow, I turn inland again following the familiar red and white signposts of the Historical Way toward its end in Cabo de Sao Vicente (that pointy bit of Portugal just before it turns the corner to the Mediterranean).